Maybe staying up until nearly 2am last night wasn’t such a good idea. Getting up and getting going this morning wasn’t easy. We slept through the hotel breakfast offering, which is a staple to travel for Bill and I. (we blame it on Kaitlyn, but it’s really just easier, even if it isn’t that good and is never a bargain)
Since our hotel is only a couple of blocks from the Eiffel Tower, we started by heading there. Just to see it. I think it is more impressive from the ground than from the top. And I’d convinced them that it would be cool to go to the top at night, for a different view of Paris. So after taking some pictures, we were off in quest of a meal.
I wandered around the Rue Clare district. It’s one of my favorites in Paris. Maybe because it’s where Bill and I stayed our first time there. I knew there were plenty of cafes. But I couldn’t find any. Finally, we spotted some awnings and figured that had to be an eating spot and walked there. It was a tabac. With food. I was hesitant. But Patrick saw someone with an egg on their plate and in we went. He wanted what that other person had. A croque madam. (toasted ham and cheese sandwich with fried egg on top) Turns out, we’d stumbled upon a spot that soon filled with locals out for lunch. And it turns out, we’d stumbled upon a really good meal. Of course, I’ll never be able to find the place again!
Now that we’d satisfied our need for breakfast, we could satisfy our need to see some more of Paris. We walked along the Seine to the Louvre. We stopped at a bathroom just inside the entrance to the grounds. Julie and Sarah were a little surprised by the attendant who stood by the line directing women to different stalls for reasons I couldn’t figure out. He didn’t bother me. I had to go.
At the museum, I thought something was wrong when the line was only five minutes long. We’d just gotten lucky. Inside, we picked up a map and chose a starting place. I wasn’t going to miss out on the audio guide again, so we stopped to rent them. The woman told us that we had until 9 at night to return them. (The Louvre is open late on Fridays) I looked at my watch. It was 2:15. I think we can make it.
The map to the Louvre is a waste of paper, although holding it at least makes you feel like you stand a remote chance of finding your way around. Since the Louvre is an old palace it is not only huge but it is not laid out like a museum. At points, you reach stairs that aren’t marked on the map and you have to decide if you are supposed to go up or down them to stay on the same floor the map thinks you are on. About three hours into the journey, Patrick figured out the map enough for us to find our way.
By then, we’d given up on seeing everything or even half of the place, and were just trying to get to the Mona Lisa. When you get into the right wing of the Louvre, there are signs up pointing you in the right direction. Note to self: when I go back, start there.
I’d heard that seeing the Mona Lisa in person is a disappointment. It isn’t really a very big painting and that seems to be the biggest comment. So maybe I’d really lowered the bar on what to expect. But when we got to the front of the mob standing in front of this most famous painting, I was not disappointed at all. I liked it. Far more than I thought I would. I stood a long time. I listened to the audio guide. I contemplated the painting. I cannot pinpoint what it is about it that is so intriguing to me. But there is something. I guess there really is some mystical quality to it…
After checking out some more Italian paintings, we all decided our feet could not take much more. We skipped the entire top floor of the museum and several wings. We didn’t go down the section of statues that’s home to Venus di Milo. (note to self: start there next time!) Finding our way out, even with the deciphered map, wasn’t easy. By the time we returned those audio guides, it was after 7pm. We’d laughed when told to be back by 9, but we were lucky to have made it!
Thank goodness there is a metro stop in the Louvre. It’s near the Starbucks, which I did not go into. I don’t really miss the coffee there, but a taste of something familiar was tempting. I refused to be that American who cannot go without a frappaccino. We hopped the Metro up to the Champs Elysee for dinner. It isn’t the best food in Paris but it’s one of the best views for people-watching.
That night trip up the Eiffel Tower was our next stop. We had no idea how late it was, since it gets dark so late in Paris. We got into the line, which I guessed would take about an hour. Then I saw the sign: top level closed. So much for that.
Our back-up plan: a night cruise on the Seine. We took the 11pm cruise. I had no idea how late it had gotten. And I hadn’t realized how cold it had gotten, either. About half-way through I was shivering. My rain jacket may be toasty warm during the day while walking, but at night on that boat it did not provide much warmth. I finally gave up and went down to the lower level… inside… away from the wind.
We walked back to the hotel from there. It was well after midnight and the traffic was as busy as it had been in the middle of the day. Don’t people in Paris get tired? Where are they all going? I’m going to bed.